Carnival: the “fifth season” is right around the corner.

In just a few days the “rüüdigi Ziit” kicks off in Lucerne and in Basel, “die drey scheenschte Dääg im Johr (the three best days of the year)” are drawing ever closer: it’s Fasnacht time – the Carnival season. Marcel from Lucerne and Tom from Basel explain what makes Carnival special in their cities.

Tom (65) from Basel.

I’m a devoted Carnival lover. I’ve actively taken part in the Basel Carnival since 1964, thirty years of which I spent as major and manager of two renowned marching bands. I have also sung the popular “Schnitzelbank” songs and in my younger years I tried my hand as a drummer, trumpeter and a sousaphone player.

It’s the best three days of the year in Basel. For me, there’s nothing like Carnival. I’m nowhere to be seen by my family during these few days, unless they come with me to Carnival. It’s a hobby; a passion.

But of course, the preparations begin much earlier on. The “clique” bands (with drums and piccolos) practise at least once a week the whole year round. Four weeks before Carnival is when so-called marching practice takes place (with instruments) outside of Basel, giving the cliques the chance to practice their repertoire. It’s a bit different for marching bands as it’s their turn later on. When I was in a band, we started rehearsing in autumn.

The theme isn’t decided on until after the summer break in order to pitch as many current themes as possible. For us in Basel, politics plays a big role when it comes to selecting a theme. There are groups who make their own masks and others who have their long-standing mask-making professionals to hand.

Carnival in Basel is a well-organised, sometimes even a bit of a serious matter. It’s not just “OK, let’s have some fun”. There are a few basic rules. For example, a theme can be critical, sarcastic or garish, but it should never be hurtful and must also be approached with decency and respect. You’ve got to use your common sense. However, there are also taboos: under no circumstance can you paint your face, walk around naked or half-naked or broach religious or sexist themes. In Basel, only those who are taking part in the Carnival dress up – the spectators don’t. But of course, we have our fun too, for me that’s the most important thing.

The food consists of three traditional meals: gruel, onion tart and cheese tart. They go down well with a beer or a glass of white wine. There are also sausage stands on every corner where you can eat the best Klöpfer (cervelats).

Oh, something really important: “Me het e Blaggedde” (“get a sticker”) – which means that even as a visitor you should buy and wear a Carnival sticker. It’s a matter of honour, as all the proceeds from the sale of stickers is shared amongst all of the groups taking part. if you’re not wearing a sticker you’ll definitely be met by the costume-wearing “Waggis” and attacked with confetti.

By the way: the Basel Carnival recently joined the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Of course, that makes us here in Basel very proud.

My personal highlight is the “Morgenstraich”, switching off the lights at 4 a.m. Even after more than 50 years of Carnival, this moment is still very special and emotional for me every year. If you’ve never experienced it, you should definitely go at least once. It is a wonderful, indescribable experience.”

Tom’s tips for the Basel Carnival:

• The Morgenstraich on Monday at 4 a.m.
• You’ve got to see the Cortège on Monday and Wednesday afternoon.
• Schnitzelbanks are entertaining and you can hear them all over the city.
• Restaurant Kunsthalle Basel: the best homemade gruel, onion tarts and cheese tarts have been served there for forty years.
• Marching concert: On Tuesday evening on Marktplatz, Barfüsserplatz and Claraplatz

Marcel (33) from Lucerne.

“I celebrate Carnival with heart and soul. You could say I was born with this passion. My parents are also wholehearted Carnival lovers. They used to take me and my brother with them when we were only young. I’ve been part of a marching band in the Carnival since I was 17 and I enjoy “the fifth season” every year.

For us, the time after Carnival is just the time to start preparing for the next one. In spring, we’ve already decided on the theme of the Carnival music and in November we start rehearsing and crafting our costumes. We’re one of the few marching bands who make their “Grende” (masks) and outfits themselves. Our carriage-building team constructs a carriage to go with our theme. Every year I’m amazed by the crazy things they come up with. As a true Carnival lover, I enjoy spending time crafting; it’s my hobby.

The time before Carnival is very popular in Central Switzerland. But we don’t celebrate that, instead we’re out and about from “Fat Thursday” to “Ash Wednesday”, pretty much non-stop.

For those who aren’t familiar with the Lucerne Carnival: Carnival goers wear “Grinden” (masks) to make fun of public figures. Many marching bands also choose an imaginative theme. This can be angry, jarring, colourful or even sombre. The sky’s the limit. But it’s not just members of marching bands and those taking part in the Carnival who wear costumes. In Lucerne, the spectators dress up too. I think that going to Carnival and not dressing up is a no-go.

At the Carnival we like to eat the local delicacy “Chügelipaschtetli” and traditional “Chnöiblätze” Carnival wafers. But you’ve got to have Berliner doughnuts and Schänkeli (pastries) too. For us Carnival enthusiasts, our favourite drink is Kafi-Zwätschge (coffee with plum brandy), but “Holdrio” (rosehip tea with plum brandy) is also popular during Carnival and warms up the freezing crowd.

In one sense, the Lucerne Carnival is a colourful festival where you can have fun and forget the troubles of everyday life. But’s its also about tradition. My personal highlight is when Brother Fritschi arrives on Fat Thursday. Just before five in the morning, the city is still dark and quiet. Then I start to get a tingly feeling and the whole of Lucerne is captured by a special atmosphere. The big bang on the lake is the sign for us musicians to start playing, and we know: the best days of the year are here. It’s just legendary!

I could go on… but if you want to know what that Carnival feeling really feels like, you’ve got to come to Lucerne and experience it for yourself. It’s fantastic!”

Marcel’s tips for the Lucerne Carnival:

• The wake-up call and the big bang at 5 a.m. on Fat Thursday is a special experience every year.
• The first big procession in the city of Lucerne takes place on Fat Thursday and is a colourful spectacle every year. The procession on Monday is also a sight that you don’t want to miss.
• Another highlight is the Monstercorso parade on Shrove Tuesday. All the bands come together in this final parade to slowly bring the Carnival to a close. This is always a bittersweet moment as I know it means the Carnival is almost at an end.

Image copyrights.
Header image © Nigel Atkinson
Carnival procession Lucerne © Luzern Tourismus
Morgenstraich © Basler Fasnachts Comité

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